Latin Translation:

Seize the Wood - Turn the Wood



My process when using the #301 threaded stoppers
 


 

   This is a #2 Morse taper with a solid steel top machined to the exact size as the diameter of the stoppers.   The best thing is that the threaded stud is notched so it is a tap.  No need to use a separate tap.  With the turning blank in the chuck, drill a 23/64" hole, insert mandrel in tailstock and turn the chuck while advancing the mandrel to tap the hole.  With the blank on the mandrel, you can either insert it in the headstock or put it in the chuck jaws as in the picture below.  Then finish turning your design.  

                                Mandrels are $25 ea.


 

   This mandrel can also be put right in some jaw chucks as shown.  If you grip the mandrel right under the collar of the top section, the jaws do not mar the Morse taper shaft.   This saves a step or two plus time.


 

  

 

 Stub, 23/64" split point HSS drill bit, 1 3/4" flute length, 3 1/6" overall length.  This drill bit is the solution to long bits that hit the wood grain and wander even one mm causing an off-center hole. 

                               Drill bits are $4.25 ea.



 

To make a simple jig,  turn a piece of scrap wood with a step for the jaw chuck, reverse chuck then turn the top portion.   Drill a 23/64" or 9mm hole through the center and insert a 3/8” x 16 tpi lag or carriage bolt, with a few drops of glue, until it protrudes 1/2" on the front.   There is no limit to the design  or shape of this mandrel, since it  is wood, you can reshape it as you like.  The bolts are available at any hardware store for about .49 ea.

 

This picture shows how one woodturner shaped the top of the mandrel to the exact size of the stainless steel stopper so he can see exactly how his stopper design will look on the stainless steel plugs.  




 



 

The first step is the same as for the stopper base with the smooth stud.  The only difference is you will drill a 23/64" hole (or 9mm) which is the size of the inside threads of the bolt .   You would also us this same size bit if you will be using my new steel mandrel to finish the design.  I prefer using a bit in a jacobs chuck in the tailstock, that way you are drilling the hole on the same machine which you are using to turn the finished stopper.  If you prefer using a drill press, that's fine, too.

 

  


Remove the turning blank and insert the mandrel.  This picture shows the bottom of the mandrel with the step for the jaws. 



 

Thread your turning blank onto the bolt.   There is no need to tap, the wood will thread itself and be nice and tight, although tapping wouldn't hurt.  



As I mentioned, the design of the waste block is not crucial except that it leaves tool room and you have a flat surface for the turning blank to seat.  If the top is slightly concave, the blank will seat better.  Now proceed to turn your stopper design.

 

 

 

My process when using a stopper with a smooth tenon.


 

  Mount a turning blank in a jaw chuck, round and shape the bottom, drill a 3/8” hole 5/8" deep to allow for glue room.  I cut a small indentation on the bottom so when the stainless steel base is inserted, it nestles into the wood rather than butting flat, creating a more custom fit.  This also provides an additional surface for the adhesive and eliminates a glue line showing.

*note:  this is step one for the threaded stoppers as well.




Bring up the tailstock (not shown) and tighten just enough to hold the wood while you turn your design.  At this point I would lightly sand the complete stopper.

 

  

Take the design to where you are comfortable parting off.   The top detail in the design  pictured, allows you to finish the complete shape so when you part off, you need only sand a tiny nub on the very top. 

 

  

Glue the stainless steel stopper base into the wood with either an epoxy or Tite Bond III.   Many turners use the Tite Bond with great success.   Don't use CA glue as it will break down in time especially with temperature changes if the owner puts it in the fridge.

 

 

A note on stopper designs:  you do not have to limit yourself when using my shorter-profile stoppers.   The design possibilities are endless, as an example, look at the flat design done by Nancy Brooks, fused glass artist, on the Bottle Stopper Designs page.   You do not have to form the design to have a transition up from the metal base, you can make it wider than the neck of the bottle.   Sometimes that looks nicer as a design on top of the bottle rather than an extension of the metal base.   As I've said, the stopper base is strictly utilitarian meant to SEAL the opened bottle of wine, not to be part of your creative turning.


Go to the Bottle Stopper Designs page to see a wide variety of imaginative designs.

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